Hide and seek – How to identify quality leather

What is full-grain leather? What does currying as well as stuffing mean? Neil Clarkson investigates the ancient fine art of leather-making, as well as explains how to tell the expert stuff from the bad when choosing tack.

It’s a delicious olfactory holding similar no other, wafting upward to greet every bit yous stand upward at the racks of saddles as well as other leather gear at your local saddlery.

The scent almost implores yous to pass money.

But you’re working yourself into a lather over leather, eyeing the enormous departure inwards prices.

One bridle is just a 10th of the cost of the dearest as well as would check your Equus caballus just fine. Some saddles, yous notice, tin displace cost a dozen times every bit much every bit the cheapest.

So yous opt for the cheapest.

But doubts creep inwards every bit yous approach the counter.

What if it breaks during a ride, or lasts alone a few months? Back yous move as well as select the most expensive example. Quality, yous recall – at a price.

But those nagging doubts render every bit yous stand upward at the counter. Is it actually worth 10 times every bit much every bit the cheapest example?

Several factors touching on the cost of tack. The wage constituent is an obvious one. In some countries pay rates are a fraction of those inwards the likes of Britain, Europe, the United States, as well as New Zealand. However, move yesteryear craftsmen, no thing where inwards the basis they work, volition e'er command a local premium.

But there’s i thing yous tin displace live certain of every bit yous optic the cost tags. The best leather craftsman inwards the basis volition non live able to create a character slice of tack from a rubbishy slice of hide.

It all begins amongst the moo-cow as well as at that spot is no escaping the fact that move yesteryear character leather costs plenty.

There are ways to assess the character of leather, but it’s non e'er easy. Some of the processes as well as techniques used yesteryear leather manufacturers are designed to create lower character leather await every bit classy every bit possible. And why not?

For many applications, leather just has to await good. Not so amongst tack. Appearances aside, it fulfils a vital percentage as well as failure could effect inwards serious injury.

Four cardinal factors touching on the character of leather tack:

• The criterion of the living, breathing cattlebeast.
• The way inwards which the cowhide is processed.
• The parts of cover used inwards construction.
• The character of the craftsmanship.

Leather on the hoof

Not all cattle are created equal. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 beast fed upward as well as raised for a trip to the shambles every bit speedily every bit possible is unlikely to hit the best leather. The older an creature gets the denser its cover volition become, as well as this density is of import inwards producing slap-up leather.

But historic catamenia isn’t everything.

An overweight creature is similarly unlikely to create slap-up leather. The creature volition yield a thick hide, but it volition live loaded amongst fat. This volition come upward out during processing, to live replaced yesteryear additives, but the concluding production is probable to live besides porous to create the move yesteryear flat as well as volition receive got a spongy feel. This volition touching on its ultimate line as well as the leather may live to a greater extent than prone to stretching as well as tearing.

Many leather manufacturers to a greater extent than or less the basis prefer older animals that receive got been grass-fed. Those raised on feedlots – grain-fed for maximum increase as well as early on slaughter – are unlikely to hit the same quality.

 

Love that butt

Cowhide from the same creature volition non live of uniform quality.

The cover is thickest along the length of the animal’s back, getting thinner towards the belly. This cover over the dorsum is called butt leather, and, at its best, volition live thick, uniform, as well as stiff – perfect for cardinal components inwards tack. Expect to discover butt leather inwards the important, high-wear parts of saddles as well as inwards the likes of stirrup leathers, where uniformity of thickness as well as line are vital.

Once yous larn to the belly percentage of a hide, the leather volition live much thinner as well as prone to wrinkling. It won’t live nearly every bit stiff every bit butt leather, as well as volition live quite slowly to stretch.

There are other variations across a hide, too. Neck leather, for example, volition live thinner than butt leather. Shoulder leather is oftentimes every bit stiff as well as thick every bit butt leather, but tends to live wrinkly as well as less attractive. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 saddle-maker may utilisation shoulder leather for its strength, but house it inwards areas where it’s non unremarkably seen. Even belly leather tin displace discover its way into a saddle, but alone for less crucial components.

Quality tack manufacturers volition e'er ensure that the best pieces of cover are used inwards the correct places. The spot of a saddle may non fifty-fifty live cattle leather at all. Some makers utilisation squealer leather, which is thinner as well as to a greater extent than elastic, making it a meliorate choice for stretching over the seat. It tin displace live treated inwards such a way to await identical to the other leather components.

Let’s larn tanning

A premium cover is never going to create slap-up leather unless it is processed properly.

Mankind has been tanning leather for at to the lowest degree 2500 years. It began amongst the Sumerians every bit a filthy as well as foul-smelling trade, relegated to the fringes of town.

Today, at that spot are 2 principal techniques: chrome as well as vegetable tanning.

Tanning leather is a chip similar grandma’s hole-and-corner tomato-sauce recipe. We tin displace gauge the cardinal ingredients easily, but it’s those hole-and-corner extras that larn inwards so special.

Many tanneries receive got their ain special additives as well as techniques they believe give their finished production an border inwards quality.

Generally, a cover volition get-go live soaked inwards common salt or brine. An element of group I lime handling volition as well as so loosen the pilus for slowly removal. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 machine volition exercise most of the pilus removal, but a worker may good take away the lastly of it amongst a blunt knife. This is known every bit scudding.

A cover volition as well as so live assessed.

The outer side is the called the grain side, the inner the flesh side. Tanners volition naturally desire a nice-looking finished production on the outside, so they volition live searching for flaws. They may fifty-fifty utilisation a buffer to take away whatever they find, but this volition take away some of the move yesteryear layer of skin.

Some saddlers volition non utilisation buffed skins, controversy that removing some or percentage of the move yesteryear layer weakens the hide.

The term full-grain leather way none of the move yesteryear layer has been buffed off.

Tack makers usually prefer leather made through vegetable tanning every bit opposed to chrome tanning.

Vegetable tanning takes a lot longer, but the terminate effect is usually a heavier, stronger as well as to a greater extent than water-resistant leather. It wears good as well as tends to live meliorate at holding its shape.

The procedure essentially involves soaking the skins inwards vats of tannins, usually extracted from flora materials. This bathing procedure tin displace convey months, amongst the mix of tannins getting progressively stronger.

The hides are as well as so washed as well as dried, which produces a stiff as well as unnourished product. Tanners as well as so employ a procedure called stuffing, inwards which oils as well as fats are worked into the peel to improve suppleness, render H2O resistance as well as give the leather a long life.

These oils as well as fats tin displace convey months to completely penetrate, so the hides volition live stacked away piece this occurs. Finally, the hides are dressed as well as finished – a procedure called currying, inwards which finishing oils, fats as well as dyes are applied. Cheaper leather may receive got this colouring sprayed on, piece character leather may live finished yesteryear hand.

The tanner’s operate is done. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 natural product, naturally cured, is prepare to live turned into tack.

Chrome tanning is a much faster process, taking days instead of months. The cover is soaked inwards chromium salts, producing a stiff leather but i that is to a greater extent than prone to stretching than vegetable-tanned hide. It volition non absorb oils as well as fats every bit good every bit vegetable-tanned hide, as well as tends to live less rigid. Its H2O resistance is poorer, but additional handling tin displace cook this.

Back to the shop

You’re dorsum at the saddlery, having overcome the intoxicating leather smell. It’s fourth dimension to assess some leather goods.

There is no international grading scale that is going to assist you. Terms such every bit “Grade A” or “First Grade” don’t hateful anything inwards particular. The nastiest slice of tack on the planet tin displace live stamped “A Grade” if a manufacturer so chooses.

We instantly know what full-grain leather means, as well as nosotros know what butt leather is, but you’re unlikely to run into a saddle stamped “Made from finest butt leather”.

Price volition naturally live a guide, but may tell alone percentage of the story. You may just discover a cheaper item made out of reasonable leather.

Firstly, assess the finish. The grain side should experience silky smoothen to the hand. Rough areas tend to signal poorer character as well as volition probable live get-go to exhibit signs of apparel during use.

Even the underside should experience reasonably smooth, every bit a character leather manufacturer should receive got gently buffed it, every bit they would the edges. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 coarse underside points to a lack of attending to detail. Again, inconsistencies inwards goal dot to poorer quality.

Should yous live afterwards perfection? Remember, imperfections tin displace live taken out during processing yesteryear utilisation of a buffer, which tin displace weaken the leather. Minor cosmetic imperfections are so acceptable, especially inwards full-grain leather, provided they don’t penetrate besides deeply.

The color goal should live uniform. Bear inwards heed the item volition receive got been given a concluding finishing color yesteryear the tack manufacturer to necktie together all the components, which inwards a expert saddle mightiness include a combination of squealer as well as moo-cow leather, as well as fifty-fifty calfskin.

Cheap leather tin displace sometimes await every bit if the goal is painted on.

Quality leather should non experience spongy. Pull it as well as curvature it. The fibres should exhibit no signs of breaking or tearing.

A character leather item should unremarkably experience quite heavy, because of its high density. Lightweight leather is probable to live porous as well as of lesser quality.

Suppleness is important. It is a clear sign the leather has been good treated at the tannery. Any well-maintained slice of tack volition larn to a greater extent than supple amongst use, but an item that is stiff as well as dry out from novel clearly points to substandard treatment.

Suppleness needs to live assessed inwards relation to thickness. Western saddles, for example, are probable to live made out of considerably thicker leather than an English linguistic communication saddle. Thick leather should withal live supple – it’s just that it offers to a greater extent than resistance.

Bend the leather i way as well as and so the other. The color should non live affected. Inspect the grain side carefully. In expert leather, a few fine wrinkles may exhibit from the bending, but at that spot should live no evidence of violent or damage.

Pull on load-bearing straps to assess the stretch. They should experience line of piece of occupation solid yet flexible. If yous larn anything to a greater extent than than a few millimetres of stretch yesteryear hand, yous tin displace bet they’ll live stretching far to a greater extent than i time position into proper use.

Unfortunately, it’s possible to live fooled yesteryear piteous character leather. While at that spot are enough of tanneries inwards the line of piece of occupation organization of making character leather, at that spot are others inwards the line of piece of occupation organization of making inexpensive leather await similar the expert stuff.

Porous, low-grade leather can, for example, live squeezed through heavyweight rollers to larn inwards appear denser than it actually is. This is where the canny buyer needs to widen their detective work.

What exercise the fittings await like? Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 character manufacturer who invests inwards expert leather is hardly probable to skimp on the clips as well as buckles. Are the fittings stainless steel or brass? Or are they nickel-plated as well as inexpensive looking? Is the stitching tight as well as uniform?

Look along whatever exposed edges of leather. If there’s a bluish or light-green tinge, it’s likely chrome-treated leather. It’s probable to live strong, but to a greater extent than prone to stretching.

What does the labeling say? Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 manufacturer using expert leather volition unremarkably advertise the fact. Ignore “first grade” or “A grade” notations, but does it tell the leather is English? American? New Zealand or Australian?

Less developed nations may non receive got the same levels of character command inwards leather production, as well as their local tack manufacturers may live less fussy inwards their leather selection.

You receive got 2 farther safeguards. Shop from a retailer yous experience volition dorsum the products it sells, as well as if yous desire expert quality, purchase a reputable brand.

Reputable manufacturers volition receive got stringent quality-control measures as well as live fussy nigh the leather they origin from tanneries. Their aim volition live to build tack of a consistently high quality, so i saddle or bridle should live every bit expert every bit the next.

The other choice is to utilisation a bespoke saddler. They know that a reputation is difficult to earn as well as slowly to lose, so the character should live good.

Well-maintained character leather goods volition render many years of faithful service, provided they are cleaned as well as maintained properly.

Poor character items volition live showing their truthful colours inside a few months. Cracking, stretching, as well as violent volition all larn apparent. Influenza A virus subtype H5N1 manufacturer may live able to cover weaknesses as well as imperfections when new, but it’s alone a thing of fourth dimension earlier they are revealed nether use.

There are no shortcuts to quality.

 

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Caring for leather

Leather isn’t just a living, breathing thing, but it’s a natural production packed amongst natural compounds that volition vantage expert attention amongst long service.

Up to 10 per cent of the weight of whatever novel item of tack volition live the oils as well as fats used to penetrate as well as save the leather. It’s so slowly to empathise how neglecting to nourish your tack tin displace dramatically shorten its useful life.

No amount of cleaning as well as oiling volition restore cracked as well as neglected one-time tack to pristine order, so never allow it larn that way inwards the get-go place.

Cracks as well as deterioration signal that the tanning agents receive got broken downward or leached from the leather, as well as receive got thus been unable to protect the essential fibres that give the leather its strength.

Tack leads a pretty tough life. It has to position upward amongst sun, pelting as well as salty sweat, non to cite the full general apparel as well as tear of riding. The common salt inwards sweat tin displace rot leather and, when damp, dirt as well as grime volition stick amongst a vengeance.

There are several different finishes to live constitute on leather, so e'er follow the manufacturer’s instructions for cleaning as well as nourishment. Some cleaning as well as conditioning agents tin displace darken leather, so read the label carefully and, if worried, attempt out a pocket-sized out-of-sight expanse first.

In a perfect world, yous would receive got the fourth dimension to create clean your gear afterwards every use. In reality, you’ll live doing good to exercise it i time a calendar month – preferably to a greater extent than oftentimes if it’s regularly exposed to dirt or sweat.

Moderation is e'er the key. Use alone the gentlest of products as well as utilisation a minimum of water.

A gentle wipe amongst a soft, slightly damp rag volition take away whatever grit that mightiness scratch the leather surface.

Use a specialist saddle lather for cleaning. Soaps yesteryear their nature are alkaline, as well as leather is at its best inwards a neutral or slightly acid environment. Soaps so require to live rattling mild as well as comprise a high flat of oils as well as fats to nourish the leather.

Any element of group I residues volition gradually interruption downward the fats as well as oils inwards the leather.

Finish amongst a conditioning agent as well as operate it gently into the leather. These are proprietary mixes probable to comprise a combination of creature fatty as well as vegetable oil. They may comprise anything from lanolin, fish oil, as well as neatsfoot oil to whatever i of a issue of vegetable-based oils.

In humid areas, consider using a conditioner amongst a mould inhibitor.

Avoid whatever petroleum-based products every bit these volition interruption downward the oils as well as fats.

Remember, moderation is the key. Don’t operate so much conditioner into your tack that it ends upward soggy as well as excess oil oozes from the leather on to your hands as well as clothes. You desire the leather to terminate upward soft as well as supple, non damp as well as limp.

Always allow your tack dry out naturally, out of the sun.

Clean as well as status whatever tack earlier long-term storage, as well as move on it away from the Sun as well as excessive heat. Cover it to preclude dust accumulating, but never seal the gear inwards a handbag which cannot breathe. Before using the gear, apply conditioner again.

Products that hope a quick, slowly shine volition rarely live every bit expert every bit using the correct products as well as the required amount of elbow grease.

 

First published on Horsetalk inwards 2009. 

 

 

 

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